Intro to Sport Climbing at Buzzard Rocks

OVERVIEW

So you’re a new-ish lead climber and looking to practice somewhere that’s both exhilarating and confidence-boosting. I give you: Buzzard Rocks.

There’s a wide selection of easy to moderate climbing in the 5.6 to 5.10 range, perfect for ensuring your clip techniques are solid and that confidence is soaring. It also has impressive exposure, meaning you’ll feel like you’re super high above the valley.

This trip is intended for the beginning lead climber, so this is the demographic that will be prioritized off the waitlist. However, if there’s space, I’ll also bring experienced or top rope only climbers.

The sun only hits this crag in the afternoon and evening, so we’ll aim to climb from about noon until sundown. Bring layers, as it will probably be cold.

The approach is almost 2 miles (great for warming up), so bring good shoes to hike in and be prepared to haul gear.

Gear to bring:
– climbing harness
– belay device + locking carabiner
– climbing shoes
– chalk (optional)
– helmet (optional, but encouraged)
– personal climbing gear (optional)
– clothes appropriate for the weather
– water
– snack
– headlamp (in case we end up hiking back in the dark)

I’ll check out some quickdraws and climbing ropes for group use.

Schedule:
0900 – leave Echols
1100 – arrive at trailhead and start approach
1200 – arrive at the crag and hope the sun is out; climb
1700 (~sundown) – leave the crag
1800 – return to car
2000 – arrive back in Charlottesville