Echols Dorm: Brick Wall By Side Door
James Madison University
Who: Climbers of all ages and skill levels
What: Climbing competition
Where: James Madison University Recreation
When: Saturday, February 13th from 7am-5pm
Why: To have fun & benefit the Jared Neville Foundation
How: Info at http://www.jmu.edu/recreation/Events/ROC.html.
“This event is a unique opportunity to meet great people, challenge yourself and contribute to an important cause, the Jared Neville Foundation, which is committed to protecting western Virginia climbing sites. There will also be prizes for top climbers.”
This is an indoor top-rope rock climbing competition. This happens every year and I’ve had tons of fun in the last two years that I’ve attended. You will be belayed by the JMU staff so you don’t need to know anything about climbing. Here are some more info:
The Wall: about 25 ft wall, lots of natural features including some cracks. The holds and natural features will be taped by certain colors based on the difficulty of the climb. It’s nearly vertical with a slight overhang. There are 4 top ropes and there is also a small 45 degree bouldering cave for a warm-up. There are pictures of the wall on their website.
Novice – 1st time climbing to 5.7
Total of 5 falls
Intermediate – 5.8 to 5.10
Total of 4 falls
Advanced – 5.10+ (as high as 5.11+ w/ eliminator route around 5.12)
Total of 3 falls
Juniors (16 and and under)
1. No chalk balls, liquid chalk only
2. No smearing or putting weight on a foot where it is not marked by a tape (1 warning). This is the most important rule.
3. There are 3 point zones and flashing (getting it first try) earns extra points.
4. If you fall, you must be lowered to the ground and you have the opportunity to retry if you have falls left. If you leave the climb, you can come back to the same rope but not the same route.
5. Anyone can climb any level (there are approx. 4 of each beginner, intermediate, and advanced routes) regardless of the level that you sign up for.
For more rules, http://www.jmu.edu/recreation/Events/2010%20ROC%20Rules%20&%20Sample%20Scorecard.pdf
Prizes: From what I’ve seen in the past years, 2 ropes, 3-4 sets of quickdraws, sleeping bag, bouldering pad, $50 JMU gift cards, cooking stove, ATC, chalkbags, small day pack, and many other small prizes
Awards: pick prizes in the following order – 1st place advanced male/female -> 1st place female/male -> 1st place intermediate male/female -> 1st place intermediate female/male -> 1st place beginner male/female -> 1st place beginner female/male -> 1st place masters male/female -> 1st place masters female/male -> 1st place juniors male/female -> 1st place juniors female/male -> 2nd place advanced male/female -> …
Advice: First, women do not compete with men and women have much better chance at winning prizes. A lot of people will sandbag; people who can climb 5.12 would purposely sign up for an intermediate to get a decent prize. If you want a good prize, so should you. Warning: If you are not in advanced, you do not have the chance to climb the eliminator (final) route.
Warm-up on a easy route and scout out your harder route. Pay attention to other people climbing the route that you want to climb. Don’t be a hero and be the first one to climb it. Remember, flashing is worth a few extra points. You have about 1.5 hour window, so spread your climbs as far apart as possible. The order is: beginner -> advanced -> intermediate so if you are in an intermediate, pay attention to the advanced group and learn all the beta!
Most importantly, relax, relax, and relax. You have to climb more than once and most people get super pumped after their first climb because they overgrip when they get nervous. The key to becoming a good climber is to use a minimum amount of energy possible to hold on so tell your body to relax when competing. Although you are not allowed to smear, you are allowed to flag as long as it doesn’t “bear your body weight” which is fairly loosely defined. If you don’t know how to flag, ask me how!
For more FAQs, http://www.jmu.edu/recreation/Events/2010%20FAQ%27s%20for%20the%20Website_2.pdf
This truly is a fun event and I look forward to it every year. As I’ve said, this is an event for ALL levels, you don’t need to be flashing 5.10, 5.11 to compete! Plus you get to cheer for your comrades and watch some amazing climbing skills.
Registration is $25 and if you your form is received before Feb 3rd, you get a free T-shirt. So send your forms in today!
You can also register on the day of the comp. There is not really any point registering early after Feb 3rd except not having to stand in line.
Trip requirements: good climbing karma, some climbing experience would help but not necessary.
You Bring: climbing shoes and harness if you own one, lunch, water, $$$ for the comp and for dinner (as a tradition, we will be going to a Thai restaurant near JMU for dinner)
Club provides: Ride, gas $$, gear if you need it.